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Thursday, February 9, 2012

Bunruku and Japanese Theatre - Guest post by Christina

God I love the stupid theatre.


Just when I think I can let it go I find myself craving it, like some unfortunate drug addiction. 


Chiang Mai made that apparent. I finally came across one falang (foreigner) theatre group. Hell I missed the theatre so much I would have delivered coffees if they needed. Finally I made contact with a very nice man who informed me they were auditioning for two young female parts. 


Oh my God! 


I am a young female! 


Can you do a British accent? 


I’ll learn one just let me be in your show.


The possibility of working on something really lifted my spirits during a particularly difficult week in Thailand. So, you can imagine when this all fell through I was slightly heart broken. Poor director had to return home to England for health reasons... no one stepped up to take his place. 


I almost considered giving directing a whirl just to be involved. But alas, it was a no go. 


Thailand is a lovely country with picturesque landscapes, an exciting food culture and smiley folks. But as far as acting goes the scene is sparse…unless you count the acting that the young bar girls do to hook their 60 year old balding clients. 


After I decided to leave Thailand in November I chose to make a pit stop in Japan to visit my good friend Matt (Hoov) from university. I hadn’t seen him in forever. It was a fabulous plan, I was excited to see my friend. I was even more delighted when I remembered that Tokyo Disney existed. Then when I realized I could finally see traditional Japanese theatre, I was ecstatic. 


Back in high school our class studied traditional theatre from around the world. I remember finding Japan’s to be the most intriguing. So, naturally I spent an outlandish amount of money to witness this gorgeous art form in action. 


There are four different types of traditional Japanese theatre: Kabuki, Noh, Kyogen and Bunruku. Kabuki is sort of the daddy of the group and the others are sort of the offspring. 


My third night in Tokyo I was out to dinner with a group of few people, I mentioned to one Japanese man I was interested in seeing Bunruku, which is just like Kabuki but with puppets. He ended up going home doing a bunch of research found out there was a performance at the National Theatre while I was in Town and had the info forwarded to me through two people a couple days later.

The puppets of Bunruku theatre are not at all like your standard marionette. These mini people are operated by three puppeteers. One man controls the head and right arm, the second man is in charge of the left and the third man has the lovely job of leg puppetry. Notice I said “man”. Only men are allowed to be involved the Bunruku and as far as I know all traditional Japanese theatre. 


These men are very successful at bringing these puppets to life. So much so that I forgot a few times that I was indeed watching puppets. 


I immediately noticed there was the mini stage set over on the stage left side of the theatre. I learned that this is where the Narrator and the Shamisen (musician) kneel. The Narrator is the only person who makes any vocal noises during the whole production. He voices every single speaking character and manipulates pitch, diction and breath to do so. The Shamisen accompanies him on a three stringed instrument. He plays music that would not be considered pleasing to most Western ears because the distance in pitch between notes is smaller than that of a typical Western scale. 


This dynamic duo is switched out for a new pair for each act. Each new set wearing a spiffy new color of giant shouldered garments. One can imagine why. It seems exhausting to put that amount of effort in for one act, forget two. I was impressed with the vocal agility of the Narrators and their ability to control minimize emotional facial expressions. Not only did they all successfully characterize each puppet, but they did it with impressive projection. Microphones were not used and I could hear each and every sound out of their mouths. 


Of course I couldn’t understand a thing he said. Fortunately an ear piece translator was provided. 


My only previous exposure to puppeteers was Avenue Q where they are actors moving puppets. In Bunruku, they are not. The puppeteers are strictly mechanical engineers and do not in any way express emotion. That is the sole the responsibility of the Narrator. 


The puppeteers move in rehearsed harmony with each other to execute the specific stylized movements of each stock character. For example, female charcters, for the most part, move using small ineffectual steps. The male characters walk using varying degrees of giant, emphasized and purposeful steps. The more important the character or the higher their status, the more stylized the steps seemed to become. 


Much like commedia dell’arte, Bunruku uses stock puppet heads. The head for a young attractive female should look a certain way just as the head for an old warrior should have specific features. I observed that the whiter one’s face appeared, the more desirable they were to other characters. So naturally an antagonist can have a red face. I can appreciate this symbolism. I think it makes understanding for a modern audience much simpler. 


One aspect of the performance that felt awkward from a western perspective was, if there is a conversation or action we are supposed to focus on, the other action surrounding this halts until it finishes. I remember one scene in particular where a general from an army came to capture the leading male character. One would think this scene would have a sense of urgency. No. the general patiently waited for about 20 minutes while the leading male spoke to his wife about various events of the day. This was consistent with the pace of my entire experience. Now I know I was only listening to a translation but seriously this seemed like the most inefficient story telling ever. Things were repeated and explained with way more words than necessary. Take this, of course, with a grain of salt because my goodness we know how things can get lost in translation. 


I loved watching this art form. This was my ideal way to learn about a culture. The recreation and dramatization of traditional life in Japan is a wonderful commentary on what life was like and how it has developed. There was talk of clothing, food, battles, social norms, historic events, geography and interpersonal relationships. A wonderful introduction to an intriguing country.


By Christina Corsaro

Sunday, February 5, 2012

On Skiing in Japan

As far as I know this says foreigners only.

自己責任(jikosekinin)- One's own responsibility, at your own risk

My Japanese Tutor, who happened to live in the US for several years, taught me the above word as I was trying to explain that in the US many ski resorts don't have any boundaries, areas off the main trails are simply identified as ski at your own risk.

Her response was, "this is a very western way of thinking"

Indeed.

Skiing and snowboarding is quite popular in Japan. According to some online sources Japan has more ski resorts then in the United States, although I would guess in the US particularly in the west the average ski resort is much larger.

I haven't been able to find any statistics on the number of people who go skiing each year in Japan or the US, but my intuition tells me that it's quite possible that more people go skiing every year in Japan than in the entire US. 

Japan has about one half the population of the US, but it is packed onto a densely populated mountainous island about the size of California. Dry, cold, Siberian air sucks up water from the sea before it slams into the mountains of Japan's northern island Hokkaido 北海道 and Honshu's western prefectures, ensuring these mountains are blanketed with some of the most consistent heavy snowfall found in the world. 

Japan's small size and fast, efficient transportation infrastructure means virtually the entire population is located within about two hours of hundreds of ski resorts. By contrast most of the major population centers in the US are not located within day trip distance to anything larger then a medium size hill. Chicago and the other major cities of the mid west, Texas, the south, DC. Even New York City requires many hours of driving/sitting in traffic to reach a ski resort.

The greater Tokyo area is home to 35 million people, about one quarter of the population of Japan. By bus or by train residents inclined to go skiing have hundreds of options well within range of a day or weekend trip. Cheap package deals including transportation, lift tickets and rentals can be found and further discounts for large groups negotiated. 

Anecdotally, I can report that on the weekends the major transport hubs of Shinjuku and Ikebukuro are bustling staging areas for alpine excursions. Thousands of Tokyoites lugging around gear finding their way to one of the many buses cued up along the street among the tall towers of the skyscraper district. 

Girls wearing high heals and skirts (yes in January) can be seen toting snowboard bags while simultaneously texting on their phones. 

After trying out six different mountains, I'm prepared to make a couple generalizations about ski resorts in Japan

First, Japanese ski resorts seem to take more responsibility for making sure skiers aren't placed in any danger relative to their western counterparts. 

In the 1980s technological developments allowed experienced skiers to navigate much more difficult terrain safely. To capitalize on these developments resorts introduced and heavily marketed the double black diamond trail rating. As I mentioned above, mountains like Jackson Hole in WY, opened up all of their terrain. 

In contrast here I've run into perfectly covered trails that were closed for no discernable reason (they hadn't been groomed yet perhaps?)

I took this picture of a closed trail on Iwatake in Hakuba. Large wide natural half-pipe with good snow cover. There were maybe a couple of lines down when we decided to check it out after lunch - I would bet from the Australian crew I met out of bounds that morning. 
We ducked under the line right infront of the lift operator are were treated to a great run in about foot deep powder. We proceeded to do about 5 more laps, eventually other people started joining us ducking under the line. 

The bigger issue is that despite huge mountains and great snow the trail designers of every mountain I've been to with the exception of Happo-one, seem to have gone out of their way to make them as bland and predictable as possible. Even the expert trails are just a bit steeper with bumps. You rarely see any kind of narrow chutes, drop offs, or glades. I haven't seen any double blacks. 

The lack of glades runs seems especially bizarre because virtually all of the trees are perfectly spaced without them having to do anything! Japan being the densely populated resource strapped island that it is, I think logged many of the forests covering the mountains maybe a couple hundred years ago so the resulting young forest isn't nearly as dense and perfect for skiing. In some cases the resort could just draw a line on a map and they would have a glade run.

Here are some thin alpine trees from Ryuo

This leads me to my grand theory about Japanese ski resorts. 

The primary consideration of most Japanese ski resorts is the visual aesthetic experience of skiing, not the variety of technically interesting terrain. 

The feasibility of putting in a beginner trail at high altitude with good exposure to scenes of stunning alpine beauty seems to be the primary characteristic determining the location of ski resorts in Japan.

I get the feeling that a bunch of Japanese mountaineers went to Europe back in the day and skied along those wide glaciers perched high in the Alps, and thought "Ah this is skiing we must recreate this in Japan."

The reason I think this aesthetic goal is the primary goal and not simply a byproduct is that often times it conflicts with making the mountain 

I found the most clear example of this at Ryuo, which features a lower and upper beginner areas. The upper area can be reached via tram. There is no expert terrain at the upper area. However the only way down from the upper area are two expert trails - one of which was open in the morning the other in the afternoon, go figure.
The mountain seems deliberately designed so that inexperienced skiers can get to ski at higher altitudes with better views, regardless of whether or not they could actually get down (most beginners seemed to be taking the tram down). 

Although it has to be said, the view was good.
Here Tsugaike 
Iwatake


Mountains with 1000-1500m vertical drops will have only two wide avenue trails to get down.

For skiers with no reservations about ducking under rope lines and shimmying around fences however this is almost the perfect situation. The best and most varied terrain of every mountain is always virtually untouched. You can find fresh tracks at any time of day.

Unlike say skiing in New England, which heading off piste can quickly turn into a bushwhacking adventure the trees in Japan are better spaced then many glade runs in North America. Personally I  prefer to explore the terrain on my own in just this fashion.